![]() There are plenty of 1911 gunsmithing books available. IMHO, everyone who owns a 1911 should learn how to properly tune it. Some modern production companies stipulate a break in period, but a properly fit gun will require minimal break in of like 30 rounds rapid fire (for example, just to mate the barrels upper lugs with the slide lugs). You can get a pistol that works well with these methods, but without a good gunsmith look-over, it is really a crapshoot when you buy from any production line. In addition, many modern manufacturers have substituted most of the hand fitting process with MIM parts and CNC. Each manufacturer uses their own set of specifications. There are countless methods and materials used by these manufacturers. There are countless manufacturers of entire guns, parts, and add ons. Knowing this, it is easy to see why so many 1911s have a rep for jamming. If all the tolerances lean towards a certain direction, a tolerance stack can happen, where all the in spec parts push the whole gun out of spec. ![]() An in spec pistol is not necessarily a reliable pistol. It could be a rattle trap but have incorrect feedramp geometry or have a bind in the slide travel somewhere. A loose pistol is not necessarily a reliable pistol. The 1911 is a great design, but it is very dependent on fit for reliability and accuracy. Could it have been the logo on the ammo box? Did I load the magazine with the wrong hand or was I simply wearing the wrong colour shirt that day that caused the part failure? I get the same flack on the rifle side of the forum if I make any discordant remark about the AK47 design.īy the way, for my edification, when the little spring under the grip safety broke on my 1911, was it because I was holding it too tight or too loose? Perhaps I was just holding it with the wrong hand. I was also trying to head of the inevitable 'must have been limp wristing' accusation.Īnd thank you for proving my point that there are folks out there that will simply not accept any criticism whatsoever of what they believe to be a work of perfection, and will go out of their way to blame 'the operator' for any and all problems. (I had an extractor snap on my Viper 50BMG.)Īs to hand size, if you happen to have a large pistol (and I think you would have to admit that the classic slab sided 1911 is a large piece of hardware), it is far less likely that you will experience issues with a proper grip if you happen to have large hands rather than small hands. I would note that a bolt action has far fewer parts that have to work together correctly for the design to function as advertised, and that bolt actions also fail from time to time. let us drop the words "100 year old" and go with ". I love it when folks that can't properly operate a proven design blame the tool instead of the operator. You either do or do not grip the gun properly regardless of hand size. Not sure what hand size and proper grip have to do with each other. Why would the fact that it's a 100 year old design have to do with anything? The bolt action has been around much more than 100 year is there something wrong with them too? Failed logic. Also switched out the springs on the Tripp and Metalforms with Wolff extra power ones with some mods to the springs. Slide would not lock back with Tripp Research mags or Metalform mags. Loaded Target 9mm: Bought this one used with 200 rounds through it. Switched out the mainspring with a 19 lb unit (it originally came with a 23 lb mainspring and 16 lb recoil spring). Switched out the recoil spring with an 18.5 lb one. TRP Operator: No Problems from round one until round 1200. This thing now runs flawlessly after 1400 rounds. Followed Wilson's ammo recommendation for ammo OAL. Wilson Combat Stainless Protector: Had a couple of FTRTFB during break-in using factory ammo and FTF using my reloads.Cleaned and lubed after every range trip. Loaded Champion: No problems from round one. Kimber Stainless TLE/RL II: No problems whatsoever from round one. Les Baer PII Supertac: FTF with the Les Baer mag it came with. Slide now locks back after the last round every time. Swithced out the mag springs with Wolff extra power springs. I was using Wilson 47D and Kimber Pro Tac mags. Stainless TRP: Slide would not lock back after the last round. Changed out the recoil spring with an 18.5 lb one and the problem was gone. Kimber Gold Combat II: had a FTRTFB every mag when I first got it. Here's a breakdown of how my 1911s have performed.
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